面料常见疵点的名称及解释

This content provides a list of Fabric Defects with simple explanations. This is ahelpful tool in making visual fabric evaluations. This list should be providedto inspectors as a practical tool for achieving uniform inspection decisions.

本文列出织物疵点的名称及其简易解释,有助于织物外观品质的评估。本文有助于对验货员在织物外观验货和评估时提供统一的标准。


Barre   横裆疵

In knits, a conditiongenerally characterized by a somewhat patterned unevenness-of-appearance in thecourse or widthwise direction of a fabric. Some causes are uneven yarn, uneventension and yarns having different dye affinities

对针织织物而言,这种缺陷的特点是在织物横列或在织物横向上通常会出现一些不均匀的花纹图案。纱线不均匀、纱线张力不均匀以及纱线具有不同的染料亲和力等都可能是出现这种情况的原因。


Bad Place   坏地

A term convenient to use fordefects that sometimes defy description. Usually used to describe localizedplaces where the weave has been severely disrupted.

对于那些难以用语言来描述的织物缺陷而言,这是一个十分方便的术语。这个术语通常用来描述那些织物织造受到严重破坏的地方。


Bias (also skew)   斜纹疵(参考纬斜)

In wovens, where the fillingyarns are off-square to the warp ends; in knits, where the course areoff-square to the wales.

对梭织织物而言,这种缺陷指的是纬纱与经纱发生尺寸偏斜的地方;对针织织物而言,这种情况指的是织物横列与织物纵行发生尺寸偏斜的地方。


Birdseye Defect   鸟眼花纹疵

In knits, the occasional anderratic appearance of tucked stitched contrary to the design of the fabric.

对针织织物而言,这种情况指的是偶尔无规律出现的与织物设计相反的集圈组织。


Bow   弓弧

In wovens, where the fillingyarns lie in arc across the width of the fabric; in knits, where the courseslie in an arc across the width of the fabric.

对梭织织物而言,这种情况指的是纬纱以弧线方式位于织物的宽度方向上;对针织织物而言,这种情况指的是线圈横列以弧线方式位于织物的宽度方向上。


Broken End 断头疵

Where a warp yarn hasruptured and been repaired - often characterized by the broken end being woveninto the fabric.

这种缺陷指的是经纱断裂后并经过修补的地方,它的常见特点是可以看见织到织物当中的断头。


Broken Color Pattern   花纹错色疵

In wovens, a break in thecontinuity of design, caused either by a mistake in the drawing of the colorpattern through the loom harness, or improper resetting of the filling patternchain after servicing the loom for a filling break. In knits, the result of amistake in creeling.

对梭织织物而言,这种情况指的是花纹的不连续性,在用织布机通丝描绘彩色图案时产生错误或者在纬纱断裂时对织布机进行维修以后对图像填充链的重新设置不正确都可能会导致这种缺陷的产生;对针织织物而言,这种情况是由梭换筒错误而产生的。


Broken pick 断纬疵

Where a filling break leavesa pick missing for a portion of the width of the fabric.

这种情况指的是,由于纬纱断裂而导致在织物的部分宽度上缺少纬纱。


Bruise (see also temple bruise)   擦伤疵(参考边撑疵)

A condition where the yarnwhile being woven, or the fabric after being woven, has been scuffed so as todisorient the fibers and result in a fuzzy appearance.

这种情况指的是:由于正在进行编织的纱线或者已经编织完毕的织物受到磨损,从而导致纤维失去方向感并导致织物外观失真。


Burl mark 斑点疵

A distortion resulting fromsome superfluous material such as a thick slub, waste, or wild yarn beingremoved with a burling tool.

这是一种由于某些物质过量而导致的变形,这些物质包括粗纺线,废物以及正在用修补工具来去除的飘头纱。


Buttonhole selvage   吊边疵

A selvage defect caused byexcessive tension buildup in the shuttle just before filling change. Thistension tends to restrict the selvage yarns from proper shedding andinterlacing, resulting in a defect resembling a buttonhole.

这是一种织物织边缺陷,更换纬纱之前在织布机梭子上累积起来的过度张力是造成这种缺陷的原因。这种张力往往会限制织边纬纱的正确脱落以及交错,从而产生一种类似于扣眼的瑕疵。


Chafed Yarn   擦伤纱

Yarn that has been scuffedby abrasion, disorienting the fibers and leaving the yarn fuzzy. This willaffect the dyeability and often result in warp streaks or filling bands.

这种缺陷指的是受到磨损的纱线,纱线受到磨损以后会使纤维失去方向感并令纱线失真。这种缺陷将会影响到纱线的可着色性,并常常会导致径向条花或纬向条痕的产生。


Chopped Filling   碎裂纬纱

An unevenness in the fillingdirection characterized by a distinct or measured pattern resulting from theeccentric behavior of a drafting roll.

这种缺陷是指纬纱方向上产生的不均衡现象,其特点是存在一个明显的或整齐的图案,而该图案是由绘图辊的偏心行为所造成的。


Clip mark   破洞疵

An undyed place resultingfrom a metal clip being used on the edge of a fabric to prevent or correct aselvage turndown during dyeing.

这种缺陷是指织物上未被染上色的地方,这种缺陷的产生是由于夹在织物边缘上的金属小夹子所造成的,这些小夹子是为了避免或修正织物织边在染色时翻折而使用的。


Coarse End 粗经疵

An end whose diameter isnoticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

这种情况指的是,有一根经纱的直径要明显大于织物正常经纱的直径。


Coarse Pick 粗纬疵

A pick of filling whosediameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

这种情况指的是,有一根纬纱的直径要明显大于织物正常纬纱的直径。


Coarse Yarn 粗支纱疵

A yarn whose diameter isnoticeably greater than that normal to the fabric.

这种情况指的是,有一根支纱的直径要明显大于织物正常支纱的直径。


Cockled Fabric   起皱织物疵

In knits, crinkled,shriveled or ridgy fabric that will not lie flat on the cutting table. May becaused by irregular twist in the yarns, uneven tension during knitting orvarying degrees of reaction by the yarns within the fabric to the finishingprocesses.

对针织织物而言,这种缺陷是指,那些有皱纹的、皱缩的或隆起的不能在裁剪台上放平的织物。产生这种现象的原因可能是由于纱线无规则的扭曲,也可能是由于纱线在针织过程中张力不均衡,还可能是由于织物中的纱线在整理工序中的反应程度不均一。


Cockled Yarn   扭结纱疵

A yarn in which som e fibersappear wild or tightly curled and disoriented. This is the result of somefibers being too long for draft roll settings so that the succeeding roll gripsthe fiber before the preceding roll releases it, causing the fiber to snap andcurl. Cockled yarn often appears as tiny slubs in the fabric.

这种情况指的是,某根纱线中的一些纤维看起来显得很卷曲而且分不清纤维的方向。产生这种情况的原因是由于一些纱线纤维相对于绘图辊来说太长,从而导致在前一绘图辊松开这根纤维之前后一绘图辊就已经把这根纤维夹住了,这样就会令纤维折断和卷曲。扭结纱在织物中看起来就好象是细小的搓捻。


Color Fly 彩色飞花织入疵

Fibers of a different colorappearing in a yarn or fabric as contamination.

这种情况指的是在纱线或织物当中出现不同颜色的纤维杂质。


Color Misdraw   色纱穿错疵

In wovens, the drawing ofcolored yarns through the loom harness contrary to the color pattern and/orweave design. In warp knits, the drawing of colored yarns through the guidebars contrary to the pattern design.

对梭织织物而言,这种情况指的是,用织布机通丝来描绘的色纱与彩色图案和(或)织纹设计相反;对经纱针织织物而言,这种情况指的是,用导杆来描绘的色纱与花纹设计相反。


Color Out   脱浆疵

In printing, when the colorpaste runs low in the reservoir resulting in blank skips in the print pattern.

在印花过程中,如果贮存槽中的色浆快用完的话,将会造成印花图案的空白跳花。


Color Smear 拖浆疵

In printing, when the coloris smeared, distorting the pattern.

这种情况是由于在印花过程当中来涂抹颜料所造成的花纹变形。


Compactor Crease   硬摺痕疵

In knits, hardset creasesresulting from the introduction of wrinkled fabric into the shrinkage controland stabilization process.

对针织织物而言,这种缺陷指的是,由于在缩水率控制和稳定过程中采用起皱织物而造成的坚硬摺痕。


Corrugation (also sanforize corrugation)   起皱疵(参考预缩纹隐皱痕疵)

A washboard effect resultingfrom a malfunctioning sanforizer blanket.

这种缺陷是由非正常工作的预缩整理机厚垫布所造成的搓板现象。


Cover 盖面疵

A term used to describe theface of a fabric in relation to the amount of a warp of filling-show,prominence of design, or other desired characteristic achievable by varying theinfluence of one or the other of the two yarn systems.

这个术语通常用来描述织物的表面特性缺陷,比如经纱和纬纱的数量、花纹突出与否、以及其他可以通过改变两种纱线系统中的其中某一个纱线系统来获得的期望特性。


Crease   折痕疵

A place where a fabric hasbeen folded on itself under pressure.

这种缺陷指的是织物在压力下自己折叠所产生的折痕。


Crease Streak   皱折条花疵

The visual after-effect of acrease occurring the dyeing or finishing processes.

这种缺陷指的是在染色或修整工作中把织物弄折后所导致的可见后效应。


Damaged 破损疵

The condition of a fabricrendered unusable for its intended use.

这种情况指的是织物已经被损坏而不能再应用于预定的场合。


Doctor Streak   刀口痕纹疵

In prints, a narrow,oscillating length-wise streak resulting from a damaged doctor blade.

这种缺陷指的是在印花过程中由于刮刀破损而产生的一条狭窄的、摆动的条花。


Double End 双经纱疵

Two ends where only one iscalled for by the design of the fabric.

这种情况指的是,在织物设计本来只需要一根经纱的地方却出现了两根经纱。


Double Pick 双纬纱疵

Two picks in a single shedwhere only one is called for by the design of the fabric.

这种情况指的是,在织物设计本来只需要一根纬纱的织机梭口处却出现了两根纬纱。


Doubling 成双疵

A filling yarn twice thenormal size due to two ends of roving running together into a single end ofspinning. The same occurrence in warp yarn would result in a coarse end.

对纬纱而言,这种情况是指,由于粗纱的两端同时撞上细纱的一端而造成这根纬纱的尺寸要比正常尺寸大两倍;对经纱而言,由于粗纱的两端同时撞上细纱的一端将会导致粗经。


Dragging End   拖尾疵

In warp knits, an end beingknit under erratic tension due to its being entangled and/or trapped on thewarp beam.

对经纱针织织物而言,这种情况指的是,由于经轴把经纱给缠住了,从而导致经纱是在不稳定的张力条件下进行针织。


Drawback 松紧条痕疵

A defect resulting fromexcessive tension gradually applied to a number of warp yarns by some abnormalrestriction; when the restriction is removed, the excess slack is wovengradually into the fabric.

产生这种缺陷的原因是由于逐渐施加于许多经纱上的由一些不正常限制所造成的多余张力。当限制消除后,这些过分松弛的经纱会逐渐被织入到织物当中去,从而产生织物缺陷。


Dropped Pick   低垂纬纱疵

This is the result of thefilling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding and releasing thefilling yarn too soon. This allows the yarn to snap into the body, leaving amissing pick part-way across the width of the fabric. The released pick is thenwoven into the fabric. The released pick is then woven into the fabric in asomewhat tangled mass.

这种织物缺陷是由于无梭织机上的引纬装置不能及时夹住和松开纬纱而造成的。由于引纬装置不能及时松开纬纱,所以纬纱就会进入装置主体,从而在织物的宽度方向上造成一半的缺纬。另外,由于松开后的纬纱立即就会被织入织物当中,因而在这种情况下,织入到织物当中的纬纱有时会缠成团。


Dye Streak 染色条花疵

Streaks related to dyestuff,its application to, or absorption by the fabric.

这是一种与染料相关的条纹缺陷,它的?生主要取决于染料在织物上的应用情况或者说是织物对染料的吸收情况。


End Out 缺经疵

A missing warp yarn.

这种情况指的就是缺少经纱。


Filling band   纬向条痕疵

A visually perceptible bandacross the width of the fabric directly attributable to a difference in thechemical or physical characteristics of the filling.

这种情况指的是,在织物宽度方向上有一条在视觉上显而易见的条痕。纬纱的物理或化学性质存在着差别是造成这种缺陷的直接原因。


Filling Floats (see also shed-splitting, undershots and overshots)   纬向跳花疵 (参考纬跳纱、上跳花疵以及下跳花疵)

Picks of filling extendingunbound over or under warp ends with which they should have been interlaced.

这种情况指的是,纬纱在本来应该与经纱交错的地方与并没有之交错,而是在其之上或之下自由伸展。


Fine End 细经纱疵

An end whose diameter isnoticeably smaller than that normal to the fabric.

这种缺陷指的是,某根或某些经纱的直径明显要比织物正常经纱的直径小。


Fine Yarn 细支纱疵

In knits, a yarn whosediameter is noticeably smaller than that normal to the fabric, usuallyresulting in finelined cracks in the course or widthwise direction.

对针织织物而言,这种缺陷指的是,某根或某些支纱的直径明显要比织物正常支纱的直径小,这种情况通常会导致在织物横列或织物横向上出现细线状的裂纹。


Flat 叠经疵

A misdraw in a plain weaveresulting in two ends weaving as one and opposing two other ends weaving asone.

这种情况指的是平纹组织的穿错,导致的结果是两根经纱重叠在一起。


Float (see warp float, filling float and skip stitch)   跳花疵(参考经向跳花疵、纬向跳花疵以及跳针)

A thread extending unboundover or under threads of the opposite yarn system with which it should havebeen interlaced.

这种情况指的是,一根纱线在本来应该与相对纱线系统中的纱线相交错的地方并没有与之交错,而是在其上或其下自由伸展。


Foreign Fiber   外来纤维

Fiber, other than thatcommon to a fabric, existing as contamination; it may be confined to a singleyarn or be distributed randomly.

这种情况指的是作为杂质存在的纤维,而不是普通的织物纤维。这些纤维杂质既可以存在于一根纱线内,也可以随机分布于整件织物当中。


Foreign Matter   外来杂质

Contamination by somesubstance other than fiber.

这里的杂质是指除纤维杂质之外的其他污染物。


Fuzz Balls 起球疵

Balls of fiber encirclingthe warp yarn formed by the abrasion of the loom. These usually result from thelack of sufficient sizing material on the warp yarns, causing what generally isreferred to as a "soft warp".

这种缺陷指的是由于受到织布机磨损而形成的包围经纱的纤维球。产生这种缺陷的原因通常是由于在经纱中缺乏足够的胶料,从而导致通常所指的"软纱"的形成。


Gout 飞花回丝等杂物织入疵

An accumulation of shortfiber or fly spun into the yarn or drawn into the loom shed. This defectdiffers from slubs in that slubs generally are symmetrical in shape while goutsappear as undrafted lumps.

这种织物缺陷指的是,卷入纱线或卷入织布机梭口中的短纤维或飞花的积累。这种缺陷与粗纺线的不同之处在于,粗纺线在外形上通常是对称的,而飞花回丝等杂物织入缺陷通常看起来象没有牵伸的团块。


Halo 晕圈疵

A light place encircling adefect resulting from dye migration to the defect during drying.

这种织物缺陷指的是,在染色的过程当中,由于染料向某一缺陷迁移而形成的把该缺陷包围起来的细纬档。


Hang Pick (also loopy filling) 三角形破洞疵(参考缩纡疵)

A pick of filling hangingfor a split second on a warp knot or other protrusion until freed by the strokeof the reed. This results in a short loop of filling appearing on the face ofthe fabric.

这种情况指的是,在钢筘刮来之前,纬纱会在瞬间缠住经纱结头或缠住其他突出物。发生这种情况将导致在织物的表面上出现一种短环纬纱缺陷。


Hang Thread 悬线疵

A thread left hanging on theface of a fabric. The most common cause is the failure of a weaver to clip theexcess yarn after repairing a broken end and/or the cloth inspector's failureto remove the excess yarn.

这种情况指的是,在织物的表面上有纱线悬挂着。产生这种情况有两个最主要的原因,其中一个原因是由于在修补完断头之后织布机没有能够夹住多余的纱线,另外一个原因是由于服装检验员没有能够去掉多余的纱线。


Hard Size 浆斑疵

A place in a fabriccharacterizes by a harsh, stiff hand and cloudy, uneven appearance. This ismost common in mill-finished yarn-dyes and is the result of a slasher stop thatallows excessive amounts of sizing material to harden onto the yarn. Thisgenerally appears in bands across the width of the fabric.

这种织物缺陷的特点是:在织物上会出现一块具有粗糙、坚硬手感的地方而且该地方看上去有云斑而且不均匀。这种情况在色织染纱中最为普遍,产生这种情况的原因是由于浆纱机停止工作,从而导致过剩的胶料凝结在纱线上。这种缺陷通常表现?在织物宽度方向上出现的条痕。


Harness Balk   错组织疵

An isolated failure of aloom harness to move in its prescribed sequence, causing a pick of filling tofloat over certain warp ends with which it should have interlaced.

这种织物缺陷是由于织布机通丝没有能够按照规定的序列来进行移动所造成的结果,从而导致纬纱在本来应该与经纱交错的地方并没有与之交错,而是在经纱上面漂浮着。


Harness Breakdown   落综档疵

A place where a harnessceases to function, resulting in the ends drawn through that harness floatingeither to the face or back of the fabric.

这种情况指的是,由于织布机通丝停止工作而导致那些由通丝牵引的经纱向织物前面或织物后面漂浮这种现象。


Harness Misdraw   综光穿错

Where one or more ends aredrawn through the harness contrary to the design of the weave.

这种情况指的是,由织布机通丝牵引的一根或多根经纱与织纹设计相反。


Hole 破洞疵

Self descriptive.

本术语的意义已经很清楚,用不着再进行详细描述。


Jerk-in 拉入疵

An extra piece of fillingyarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabric along with a regular pick offilling. On conventional looms they generally are confined to the battery side,the most common cause being the failure of the thread-holding mechanism to holdthe filling from the out-going bobbin long enough for the temple thread cutterto cut the yarn after a filling change.

这种情况指的是,织布机梭子在把正常纬纱拉入织物的同时还把一根多余的纬纱也拉入到织物当中。在常规织布机上,这种缺陷通常发生在纬管库一侧。产生这种现象最主要的原因是由于持线装置在纱线更换后没有能够从向外去的绕线筒上夹住纬纱。绕线筒足够长,能够让边撑丝条切断器来切断纱线。


Kinky Filling   扭结纬纱疵

A place in a fabric where apick of filling has been given enough slack to twist on itself for a shortdistance. Causes are: shuttle not boxing properly, a malfunctioning fillingfork, too much power on the picker stick , excessive twist in yarn, inadequatesetting of filling twist, etc.

这种情况指的是,在织物上某个地方由于纬纱过分松弛而导致它能够在短距离内自我扭结。造成这种现象的原因有:织布机梭子装箱不正确;纬纱叉工作不正常;打梭棒功率过高;纬纱过度扭结以及纬纱捻度设置不合适等。


Knot 打结疵

A place where two ends ofyarn have been tied together.

这种情况指的是,纱线的两端系到一起了。


Loom Bar 换纡纬档疵

A change in shade across thewidth of a fabric, resulting from a buildup of tension in the shuttle before afilling change. This is most common on yarn-dyed fabrics.

这种织物缺陷指的是在织物宽度方向上出现的色档,产生这种现象的原因是由于在更换纬纱以前在织布机梭子上存在着张力积累。这种缺陷在染织织物中最为普遍。


Loom Waste 飞花织入疵

A place in a fabric whereaccumulated waste off the loom has found its way into the fabric either by aircurrent or loom shuttle.

这种情况指的是,在织布机上积累起来的废物通过气流或织布机梭子而进入织物当中。


Loopy Filling (also hang pick) 缩纡疵(参考三角形破洞疵)

A pick of filling hangingfor a split second on a warp knot or other protrusion until freed by the strokeof the reed. This results in a short loop of filling appearing on the face ofthe fabric.

这种情况指的是,在钢筘刮来之前,纬纱会在瞬间缠住经纱结头或缠住其他突出物。发生这种情况将导致在织物的表面上出现一种短环纬纱缺陷。


Loose Course   松眼横列疵

In knits, a course whoseloops are more extended than normal, due to a lack of correct tension on theyarn.

对针织织物而言,这种情况指的是,由于纱线缺乏适度的张力而导致线圈横列的环结要比正常的环结大。


Machine Stop   停车色档疵

A term used to describe thevisible evidence of a fabric having been stopped in some machine during thedyeing and finishing process. Generally it appears as glaring shade changesacross the width of the fabric.

这个术语用来描述在染色和修整过程中由于机器停止工作而把织物夹在机器当中所造成织物上出现的明显色档。一般情况下,这种缺陷表现为织物宽度方向上出现的显著色纬档。


Mat-up 经向蛛网疵

A place where the warp yarnshave become entangled so as to disrupt the proper interlacing of warp andfilling. This can be caused by a loom failing to stop when an end breaks, orthe introduction of a piece of wild yarn from some other source. Mat-ups mayrange in severity from minor to vary damaging.

这种情况指的是,由于经纱缠在一起而破坏了经纱和纬纱的正确交错。产生这种现象的原因是由于织布机在纱线断裂时没有能够停下来,也可能是由于从其他地方来的飘头纱进入到织布机中。经向蛛网的危害程度可能不大,也可能极具破坏性。


Misdraw (Harness)   穿错-综光

Where one or more ends aredrawn through the reed contrary to the design.

这种情况指的是,由钢筘牵引的一根或多根经纱与设计相反。


Misdraw (Reed)   穿错-钢筘

Where one or more ends aredrawn through the reed contrary to the design.

这种情况指的是,由钢筘牵引的一根或多根经纱与设计相反。


Misdraw (Color)   穿错-色纱

In wovens, the drawing ofcolored yarns through the loom harness contrary to the color pattern and/orweave design. In warp knits, the drawing of colored yarns through the guidebars contrary to the pattern design.

对梭织织物而言,这种情况指的是,由织布机通丝牵引的色纱与颜色图案及(或)织纹设计相反。对经纱针织织物而言,这种情况是指,由导杆牵引的色纱与花纹设计相反。


Mispick 缺纬疵

Where the weave design isbroken by the absence of a pick of filling.

这种情况指的是,织纹设计由于缺少纬纱而遭到破坏。


Missing Yarn   漏纱疵

In knits, the absence of ayarn, often resulting from a machine continuing to run after a yarn breaks.

对针织织物而言,漏纱这种情况通常是由于在纱线断开以后机器仍然继续运转所造成的。


Miss-selection   漏选疵

In knits, where th e designis corrupted by the random dropping of stitches. This can result from stickingjacks or the erratic behavior of a yarn feed.

对针织织物而言,这种情况指的是,花纹由于偶然的漏线而遭到破坏。产生这种现象的原因可能是由于底脚片被粘住了,也可能是由于纱线喂入方式不正确。


Mixed Filling   混纬疵

A visible widthwise bandresulting from filling that differs from that normal to the fabric.

这种情况是指,由与织物中其他正常纬纱不同的纬纱所导致的一条可以看见的条痕。


Mixed Yarn 混纺纱疵

Yarn that is alien to afabric because of its peculiar chemical or physical characteristics.

这种织物缺陷是指在织物当中包含与织物具有不同化学或物理性质的纱线。


Mottled 多斑疵

A term used to describe a blotchyor spotty appearance resulting from the uneven application of color to afabric, or the uneven acceptance of color by a fabric.

这个术语是用来描述有许多斑点的织物外观。产生斑点的原因可能是由于织物上的颜料涂抹不均匀,也可能是由于织物对颜料的吸收不均匀。


Needle Line 条花疵

In knits, a vertical crackresulting from a bent needle. The design is intact but the uniform placement ofwales is distorted.

对针织织物而言,这种缺陷是指由弯针造成的垂直裂缝。在这种情况下,虽然图案丝毫不受到影响,但是纵行的均匀布置会发生变形。


Neppiness 粒结疵

An excessive amount oftangled masses of fiber (neps) appearing on the face of a fabric.

这种情况指的是,在织物表面上出现过多的缠结团块(粒结)。


Open Reed (also reed mark) 筘痕疵(参考筘路疵)

A defect resulting from abent reed wire, characterized by a fine-lined thin place in the warp direction.

这是一种由弯曲筘片所造成的织物缺陷,其特点是在织物经向上有一块细长的条痕。


Out of Register   对花不准

In printing, patterndistortion due to lack of synchronization of the printing rolls.

这种情况指的是,在印花过程中,由于印辊不同步而造成的花纹变形。


Overshot 跳花疵

A pick of filling deflectedfrom its normal path through the shed and extending unbound over warp ends withwhich it should have interlaced. This condition is most common within twelve tofifteen inches of the selvage and results from improper loom setting.

这种情况指的是,纬纱偏离了它的常规路径,并且没有与经纱在它们本来应该交错的地方相交错,而是在经纱之上自由伸展。这         种缺陷最容易出现在距离织物织边十二到十五英寸范围以内的地方,而且是由于织布机设置不正确所造成的。


Pattern Defect   花纹缺陷

In wovens, the formation ofinterlaces or the insertion of color contrary to the design of the fabric,resulting from a machine malfunction or the incorrect placement of colored yarnin the harness of the loom. In knits, the formation of stitches or theinsertion of color contrary to the design of the fabric, resulting from amachine malfunction or the incorrect placement of colored yarn in the creel.

对梭织织物而言,这种情况是指,交错的形成或者颜色的嵌入与织物的花纹设计相反,产生这种现象的原因是由于机器工作不正常,也可能是由于色纱在织布机通丝中的放置不正确。对针织织物而言,这种缺陷是指,缝线的形成或者颜色的嵌入与织物的花纹设计相反,产生这种现象的原因是由于机器工作不正常,也可能是由于色纱在粗纱架上的放置不正确。


Pin Holes 针洞疵

These are holes common to afabric run over a pin-tenter and become a defect when they venture too far infrom the selvage and enlarge or tear.

对于从针链拉幅机上辗过的织物而言,出现针洞很平常,但是如果针洞距离织物织边太远,或者针洞扩大以及撕裂的话,那么此时就产生了这种织物缺陷。


Press off 脱套疵

In knits, a condition wherethe fabric fails to knit and either falls off the machine or the design iscompletely disrupted and destroyed.

对针织织物而言,这种情况是指,织物没有被织上,或者织物从机器上掉下来,还可能是花纹完全断裂和破坏。


Pucker (also sanforize pucker)   皱纹疵(参考预缩皱痕疵)

A warpwise distortionresulting from uneven wetting-out during sanforization, generally due to faultyspray heads. It may appear as a wavy selvage or affect any other area of thefabric. Confined to one spray head, the pucker generally is eight to ten incheswide.

这种织物缺陷是指在预缩处理过程当中由于浸湿不均匀而产生的经向变形,一般来说,是由于喷雾头不好而造成的。这种缺陷可能会表现?波状的织物织边,也可能会影响到织物的任何其他区域。在采用一个喷雾头的情况下,产生的皱纹通常有八到十英寸宽。


Reed Misdraw   钢筘穿错疵

Where one or more ends aredrawn through the reed contrary to design.

这种情况指的是,由钢筘牵引的一根或多根经纱与花纹设计相反。


Reed mark (also open reed) 筘路疵(参考筘痕疵)

A defect resulting from abent reed wire, characterized by a fine-lined thin place in the warp direction.

这是一种由弯曲筘片所导致的织物缺陷,其特点是在织物经向上有一块细长的条痕。


Reed Streak 筘路条花疵

A warpwise defectattributable to a bad reed. It may appear as light and heavy streaks due touneven placement of the yarn, or it may scuff the yarn varying its affinity fordye.

这是一种由坏钢筘所引起的经向条纹缺陷。由于纱线的布置不均匀,所以织物上可能会出现轻的或重的条纹,另外,坏钢筘还可能会对纱线产生磨损,改变纱线的染料亲和力。


Reedy 筘片缺陷

A condition chacterized byopen streaks following the pattern of the reed wires. This can be the result ofa too-coarse reed, wrong reed-draw arrangement or improper setting of the loom.

这种缺陷的特点是,在有条纹缺陷出现的地方通常会出现筘片花纹。产生这种现象的原因是由于钢筘太松,也可能是由于钢筘牵引的安排不正确,还可能是由于织布机的设置不正确。


Rough 布面毛糙

A term used to describe arough or crinkled appearance resulting from a broken needle or jack.

这个术语通常用来描述由于断针或断底脚片而造成的织物的粗糙或起皱的外观。


Sanforize Corrugation (also corrugation)   预缩纹隐皱痕疵(参考起皱疵)

A washboard effect resultingfrom a malfunctioning sanforizer blanket.

这种织物缺陷是由于预缩整理机厚垫布没有正常工作而导致的搓板现象。


Sanforize Pucker (also pucker)   预缩皱痕疵(参考皱纹疵)

A warpwise distortionresulting from uneven wetting-out during sanforization, generally due to faultyspray heads. It may appear as a wavy selvage or affect any other area of thefabric. Confined to one spray head, the pucker generally is eight to ten incheswide.

这种织物缺陷是指在预缩处理过程当中由于浸湿不均匀而产生的经向变形,一般来说,是由于喷雾头不好而造成的。这种缺陷可能会表现为波状的织物织边,也可能会影响到织物的任何其他区域。在采用一个喷雾头的情况下,产生的皱纹通常有八到十英寸宽。


Sanforize Roughness   预缩布面粗糙

A term used to describe arough or crinkled appearance resulting from over-sanforization.

这个术语通常用来描述由于过分预缩而造成的织物的粗糙或起皱的外观。


Scrimp 折皱疵

A defect resulting from afabric being printed in a folded or creased condition so that the pattern isdestroyed when the fold or crease is opened or stretched out.

这种缺陷是由于织物在褶皱或折叠状态下进行印花所造成的,当打开或展开褶皱或折痕的时候,花纹通常会遭到破坏。