SEWING THREAD SELECTION

A standardized guideline for garment/textiles inspection; a professional norm between you and your customers/vendors.

There is no perfect thread for all applications; however, there is a perfect thread for the specific application.


In order to select the right thread for a specific application, there are three elements you should consider:

  1. Fiber Type

  2. Thread Construction

  3. Thread Size


Most people who are involved in the selection of thread make their decision based on one or all of the following reasons:

  • Sewability (Process ability)

    - What type of sewing equipment will be used in the manufacturing of this sewnproduct?

    - Are there currently any issues with excessive interruptions due to threadbreakage, skipped stitches and repairs that you would like to overcome?

  • Seam Performance (Seam strength, seam durability, etc.)

    - What seam performance specifications must be met to satisfy your customers? Minimum seam strength?

    - What special end-use requirements must be maintained?

    - Are you having any quality issues like excessive needle holes, open seams,ravel backs, or broken stitches?

    - Are you currently having any quality issues with customer returns,charge-backs, etc. that you would like to overcome?

  • Seam Appearance (Color, color fastness, stitch appearance, etc.)

    - What color, color fastness, and stitch appearance requirements do you have tomeet to satisfy your customers?

    - Are there any seam puckering issues?

  • Cost (Cost includes both the price and the hidden costs associated with the above)



THREAD CONSTRUCTION

Corespun Thread Construction

  • Made by wrapping staple fibers around a bundle of continuous filament polyester fibers and then plying into a sewing thread.

  • Sews on all types of sewing equipment with minimum sewing problems (lockstitch, chain, overedge, etc.).

  • Sews on manual and automatic multidirectional sewing machines.

  • 30%~40% higher strength per size than spun polyester threads the same size.

  • Fibrous surface - soft hand, no sheen, low friction.

  • High elongation for greater seam strength & seam elasticity.

  • Uniformity in physical characteristics due to Corespun construction - more uniform than spun.

  • Allow use of smaller thread size but maintain seam strength.

CW Core (Cotton Wrapped Poly Core):

  • Very good needle heat resistance

  • Provides a wash-down look

  • For all types of garment applications that require a very durable thread

  • For denim garments, pants, etc.

PW Core (Polyester Wrapped Poly Core):

  • Highest strength per size - smaller thread can be used

  • Very colorfastness, chemical & enzyme resistance

  • Less expensive than CW Core

  • For all types of garment applications that require a very durable thread

  • Denim, Workwear, Performance Knits, Tailored Clothing

Spun Thread Construction

  • Made from 100% staple that are spun into yarns and then twisted together.

  • Fibrous surface - soft hand, low sheen, low friction.

  • High elongation for greater seam strength & seam elasticity.

  • Less expensive than Corespun threads.

  • Sews on most types of sewing equipment (lockstitch, chain-stitch, overedge, etc.)

  • For all types of apparel sewing applications.

Spun Polyester:

  • For all types of garment applications

Spun Cotton:

  • For garment dye programs.

Textured Thread Construction

  • Made from 100% continuous filaments that are textured into yarns & heat set for bulk retention, polyester or nylon.

  • Sews on overedge, chainstitch, and coverstitch machines which requiring good seam coverage (but no on 301 lockstitch machines).

  • Very good seam elasticity.

  • Used for knit wear like active wear, lounge wear, under wear, intimates & fleece.

  • Also used for serging applications on woven's.

Textured Polyester:

  • For knit garments like tee shirts, fleece, or serging woven garments.

Textured Nylon:

  • For foundation garments, lingerie, high stretch fabrics used in bicycle & exercise apparel


Air Entangled Thread Construction

  • Made from 100% polyester continuous filaments that are entangled using high air pressure.

  • Flat and ribbon like providing good loop and seam strength.

  • Stronger than spun polyester threads the same size.

  • High initial modulus for excellent loop formation.

  • Excellent seam durability - high loop strength.

  • Good sewability on all types of equipment.

  • Sews on all types of sewing equipment (lockstitch, chainstitch, overedge, etc.).

  • Used in all types of garments and non-apparel applications including soft home / mattress applications.

  • Used for decorative top stitching on denim.

  • Does not have as soft hand feel as spun polyester.

Twisted Multifilament Thread Construction

  • Made from 100% continuous filaments which twisted then plied - softor bonded.

  • High tenacity - greater strength per size - stronger than corespun threads.

  • Excellent abrasion resistance.

  • Excellent seam durability.

  • Superior ply security contributing to fewer thread breaks and sewing interruptions.

  • Primarily used for industrial sewing applications: furniture, footwear, luggage, sporting goods.

  • More expensive than typical spun apparel threads - limited color line.

  • Made in either Nylon, Polyester, Rayon, Polypropylene, PPS or PTFE.

Monocord Thread Construction

  • Made from 100% continuous filaments that are slightly twisted and then bonded together.

  • Made in either Nylon and Polyester.

  • High tenacity - greater strength per size - stronger than corespun threads.

  • Flat and ribbon-like.

  • Excellent abrasion resistance.

  • Excellent seam durability.

  • Very good loop and seam strength.

  • Primarily used for industrial   sewing applications: furniture, foot wear, luggage, sporting goods, soft home.

  • More expensive - limited color line.

Monofilament Thread Construction

  • Made from a single continuous filament of nylon resembling fishing line.

  • Translucent so it blends in with many colors.

  • Not recommended for seams that lay adjacent to the skin.

  • Not recommended for kids and infantwear.

  • Inexpensive compared to other thread types.




Fabric Weight, Typical Thread Sizes, Tread Application, and Recommended Needle Size:

Fabric

Oz./ Sq. Yd.

Grams/ Sq. M.

Thread Tex Size

Needle Size (M)

Extra Light

2-4 oz.

68 - 136 g/m2

Tex   16, 18, 21, 24

60, 65

Light

4-6 oz.

136 - 204 g/m2

Tex   24, 27, 30

70, 75

Medium

6-8 oz

204 - 272 g/m2

Tex   30, 35, 40

80, 90, 100

Medium Heavy

8-10 oz.

272 - 339 g/m2

Tex   40, 45, 50, 60

100, 110

Heavy

10-12 oz.

339 - 407 g/m2

Tex   60, 80, 90, 105

120, 140

Extra Heavy

12-14 oz.

407 - 475 g/m2

Tex   105, 120, 135

140, 160



Fabric

Tex Size

Application

Extra Light

T-18, T-21,   T-24

Sheer Blouses, T-Shirts

Light

T-24, T-27,   T-30

Dress Shirts, Dresses, Knit Tops

Medium

T-30, T-35,   T-40

Chinos Pants, Fleece Sweat Shirts

Medium   Heavy

T-50, T-60,   T-70

Light Weight Denims, Coveralls

Heavy

T-80, T-90,   T-105

Heavy Denims, Parkas

Extra Heavy

T-120,   T-135

Heavy Denims - Stretch